San Diego, CA to Utah

Thursday, October 8, 2009

My last day of the all you can fly Jet Blue pass. Where should I end up? Boarding the plane I had chosen Salt Lake City b/c I could get a direct flight from San Diego, even though Las Vegas was closer to my intended target of Bryce and Zion National Parks. The plane was virtually empty as I took my seat in the second row and settled back for the bumpy ride. After landing I was met by my CS friend-of-a-friend, Tom who threw my backpack in his red truck and drove us to a fun Irish pub. Things had changed since the last time I was in Salt Lake City; you no longer needed a membership to walk into a bar and order a beer. Utah even had some local brews, so I ordered up and tasted the pale ales of choice. After a few hours we were joined by my Couchsurfing host, Rob. The two of us were headed out to Southwest Utah for several days of hiking and camping, but before we left there was a checklist to go over. Food, check, tent, check, NPS pass, check. We were set and I was ready to roll out into the wilderness.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Today I hopped on the Salt Lake City public bus headed to find wireless Internet. My CS host had told me of a coffee shop, but when I got to that particular corner all I found was a suburban neighborhood; perhaps the Mormons had done away with it? After riding around in a circle on the bus for over an hour, I ended up downtown at the main SLC library, which resembled more of an art institute and was something like 6 stories. Not a bad place to work for a few hours. Afterwards, I meandered around on the streets, which looked totally different not covered in snow and foreigners cheering on their Olympic team. The only thing I really remember about being here in 2002 was having bronchitis while trying to find Budweiser that had a content of higher than 3.2 and buying scalped tickets to the biathlon. Can you shoot a gun while you ski?

Late in the afternoon Rob pulled up in a car the same color as the Texas Longhorns football jerseys and away we went in the burnt orange Chevy Aveo. I soon learned that my CS friend didn't have a map of Utah and after only two hours he missed the exit I informed him to take; therefore, leading us on a six hour trip through the mountains instead of four. At approximately 11:00 PM we rolled into Capital Reef National Park where all the signs said "CAMPSITES FULL." Breaking the rules we popped up a tent next to an RV and I vowed to wake up before the ranger could fine me and revoke my pass. It was late and I was tired, but Rob was determined to blow up his air mattress. So, I helped him move the car to a quiet location, away from people, fill it full of air, then toss it on top of the Aveo and drive slowly back to his tent. Inconspicuous indeed.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

America is so beautiful. And the NPS offers such an amazing glimpse into the beauty. I love being outdoors and appreciating all that it has to offer. After waking up I made friends with the NPS volunteers who decided not to fine me for sharing a campsite, just making me pay the $10 fine. Swarmed with gold one dollar coins from the SLC metro machine, I threw ten of them in a NPS envelope and decided they'd think they hit the jackpot when they checked the money canteen later. The MOON guide had said there were five hikes that were "must do's" in Capital Reef and I had time to hit up two. Starting near the campsite, I ventured through a narrow trailed called Grand Wash, where the canyons went up to 200 feet in some points. It wasn't very difficult, but the rocks and wildlife were worth the effort. Afterwards, I hit up Chimney Rock, simply b/c I love Chimney Rock, NC so I figured why not see what Utah's is like? Beginning the trail the mountains are such a deep red that it takes my breath away. A few hundred feet up the trail I turn and look around. Behind me is a picturesque maze of purples, pinks, reds and blues. I halfway expect John Wayne to come riding up the road. It looks just like out of a movie. After completing the three mile trail I head towards Bryce Canyon National Park and find a campsite just in time.

Across from my campsite is an older lady with long white hair. She has a pit bull with her and a camping set up built for many months at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. I watch as she pulls out a tent bigger than my old San Diego studio, two air mattresses, four bundles of firewood and some rope. Heading over to say hi, she tells me her name is Mary. First I think Mary is homeless, living out of her truck and camping. Upon further observance, I decide Mary is on the run from the law and hiding out in National Parks. I vow to find her on the FBI most wanted list when I'm back in civilization (For the Record, I did look for her, but didn't see her; this does not discourage my conclusion). After setting up camp, I head to Sunset Trail, which offers exactly what it says-The Sunset. A rainbow of fruit flavors come down through the sky and I catch my first glimpse of Bryce Canyon. Hoodoos (like voo-doo) make up the canyon and look like little chess pieces as trails weave in and out. Along with hundreds of other tourists, I attempt to snap the last light of the day. I feel as though I'm the only person speaking English when a tour group of French people show up jibbering on about something this and that.

Back at camp I meet my neighbors who inform me that there is a presentation by the NPS Rangers tonight on the stars. So, we head over to the Bryce Lodge together and began to learn about constallations and such. Meanwhile, my CS host has decided that PBR is his drink of choice and inside the upscale lodge he cracks one open, only to drop it all over the floor. Everyone turns and stares and I wonder how it is possible that only I could end up being hosted by the one progressive Utah guy that has been divorced twice and drinks like a fish. The NPS Ranger then leads us to the visitor center where three telescopes are available to see stars and I like Aurora, which are two stars, a blue and gold one, right next to each other. The Rangers keep talking about starts that are 370 million light years away and I tell them "Oh', is that it!" He does not seem amused that I am joking about his job.

Standing outside I am so freaking cold that I refuse to hang out by anyone's campfire or be social. I just want to curl up in my sleeping bag and go to bed. Which is exactly what I do. It is 29 degrees outside; thank you North Face for protecting me this evening.

Sunday, October 11, 2009

I woke up early and headed to the lodge for some hot chocolate and a warm fire. It is damn cold in Bryce. Everyone in there has on their beanie and gloves. I continuously wonder how I survived four years in Boone. Soon, the sun rises and I head to Sunrise Trail. The hoodoos are now bright pink and orange and after a breakfast of oatmeal and apples we head to hike a 7-mile trail. Beginning with the Queen Victoria trail then ending at the Peek-a-boo Trail, I follow the markers from the bottom of the ampitheater to the top where there are gigantic rocks being held up by the tiniest of formations. From up top you can see all the way to Colorado and the scenery continues to remind me of a Western flick. The Lone Ranger theme plays in my head...

After finishing my hike I end up near Sunset Trail and enjoy some PB&J on a bagel where a little chipmunk jumps up and tries to steal my lunch. He's cute, but not worth the $100 fine, so I take his picture instead. Leaving Bryce we head to Red Rock National Park with colors so vibrant there should be a crayon named after them. Attempting something called the Golden Arch, it is a path so narrow that it only reaches three feet in some spots. I feel like I'm walking in the Middle Eastern desert, as there is nothing else around but sand and in the middle of my journey my breath is taken away by the beauty that is before me. It is definately Purple Mountain's Majesty. The road to Zion is not very busy, but entering the park is a mile long tunnel that was built and opened in the early 1930's; an engineering marvel at the time. Nearby is a checkerboard mesa that greets visitors and offers some of the formations that are to come. Once at the campsite the sign says "CAMPSITE FULL" but the ranger offers me a group camping site for overflow. I'll take it.

Setting up the tent I meet a couple of travelers from Quebec, a group from Germany and a couple showing their three-year old the NPS from Aspen. As the night grows darker we all gather around the campfire and I teach the German's how to make s'mores. They're sold instantly, although their accent isn't kind when it comes to speaking the term. It is much warmer in Zion and I walk around in my flip flops and t-shirt. What a difference a night makes.

Monday, October 12, 2009

The majesty that is Zion. Morning light gives way to gigantic rock formations, green trees, and yellow wildflowers. Every direction I turn offers me a new vantage point for taking photos and relishing in God's beauty. After packing up the tent and saying bye to the other campers I grab a seat on the Zion shuttle and head towards Observation Trail. It is four miles straight up, then four miles straight down. This is the most difficult hike in Zion and I was told a guy just died while attempting to hike it b/c he had a heart attack. As soon as I step off the shuttle I'm going uphill, weaving through fall foilage and a narrow wash. It takes three hours to get to the top where groups of hikers enjoy their lunch and more chipmunks attempt to make friends. After taking a break myself, I head back down, taking precaution with my knee and stopping along the way to drain my Camelback.

Before the end of the day I also take the path to the Upper Falls, which is not really a fall at this point of the year, just a stream of water that looks like the garden hose was left running. Approaching the trail's end I spot a GIGANTIC tarantula and later find out that August is their busy season for running rampant through the park. How did I miss the chapter on tarantula's in the park? I leave while some guy is still debating whether or not to pick up the arachnoid. After four days without a shower, it's now time for me to stop camping. I say bye to my CS host and find a room at the Zion Park Lodge. They offer me a nice little guest house, out back and away from the actual motel. It is quaint enough and has a shower, which is really what a girl wants right now. I enjoy the hot water, get clean, then watch a Project Runway marathon for two hours before falling asleep at 7:30 PM. It has been a long four days.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

I slept for twelve hours last night. What a difference a bed makes. After waking up in a real bed, I threw my hiking shoes back on and boarded the Zion shuttle towards Angel's landing. The second most difficult hike in the park, it involves a little over half-mile of narrow rocks that leave you hanging on to a chain and scrambling across two-feet of trail to the end. Angel's Landing is only 2.5 miles straight up though, so this is like a cake walk compared to yesterday. It is supposed to take four hours to do the round trip, but I complete it in less than three. When you are almost to the end there are 21 switchbacks, called Walter's Wiggles that take you up to the top. Then for the daring, AKA me, you continue to venture across the narrow part, where many people have fallen to their death. Behind me are some Europeans who feel the need to move swiftly and I let them pass as I have no desire to die today. I move slowly and carefully and am scared, but since I have come this far there's really no point in turning back until I am finished. Finally, at the top two girls are perched right on the edge enjoying their lunch, so my picture taking spot is taken and I want to scream "Move Chicas!" I ask a guy from Maine to take my photo and after 7 attempts he still seems to be cutting me off and only getting my shoes. I am doomed to never have my photo atop this mountain and just head back down. I'm tired and need a break.

After making it back to the bottom I take a walk along the river into the narrows and then catch a shuttle back to Springdale. Cleaning up and making myself presentable, I meet up with the Quebec couple to make plans for driving into Las Vegas. Tomorrow the three of us will drive into Las Vegas together, as they are on their way to Los Angeles and I'm going to Vegas for Amy and Ryan's wedding. The National Parks were beautiful and Southwest Utah is a place for everyone to see. Watching the sky darken I declare there is nothing more beautiful than a sunset in the desert.